Fly Fishing for Smallies: Rods
by Tracy Gosselin

Why would anyone want to fly-fish for smallmouth bass? That long, willow-whip of a rod couldn't possibly have the strength necessary to tame one of the hardest fighting gamefish in North America, could it?

It sure can.

Fly-fishing opens up a whole new way to enjoy the sport we love. It has broken out of the stereotypical trout-angler mold and is becoming more mainstream, and at the same time, more exotic. Anglers are using fly gear to fish for large- and small-mouth bass, sunfish, carp, pike, muskie, stripers, bluefish, albacore, even heavyweights like marlin, sailfish and shark.

For me, the act of casting a flyrod is a soothing, almost hypnotic act. Even if the fish aren't cooperative, it is still an enjoyable time on the water. I feel more of a sense of intimacy with the natural world when I fly-fish. I can't explain that feeling – it's just there.

This is the first in a series of articles designed to help a beginning fly-angler get started in using the long rod for smallmouth. Most of the information would be useful for anyone just starting out in flyfishing, but I am keeping the focus on the bass angler.

Getting Started
First of all, the toughest thing to learn on your own is the actual casting techniques. In casting a spinning or baitcasting rod, the weight of the lure is what is being thrown. The weight of the lure pulls a nearly weightless line behind it. With a flyrod, the weight being thrown is the flyline itself, and that weight pulls the lure (the fly) along with it.

I strongly suggest that a new fly-angler take a class or find a fellow angler that is willing to help teach you. Check with local flyshops for information regarding classes…many of them may hold workshops of their own. Some school departments' adult education divisions may offer fly casting lessons, or would, if they knew the interest was out there. The Trout Unlimited chapter nearest you would have information, as well. The casting techniques are the same for bass and trout.

The Basics
When choosing tackle for fly-fishing, it is easiest for a beginner to buy an "outfit". That is a rod, reel, and line that are meant to work together. If you are buying the components separately, the choices can get overwhelming. Try to find a local flyshop that has helpful salespeople.

Rods - When faced with the huge array of rods available, a new fly angler can easily suffer information overload. Walk into a flyshop and look over the selection available. Open a catalog….there are literally thousands of choices. What weight, what length, and what the heck do they mean by "fast action"?

Flyrods are available most commonly in line weights ranging from 2 to 12 weight. Line weight has nothing to do with the test rating given to standard fishing lines. The industry came up with a standard based on the weight of the first 30 feet of the fly line, and gave each weight range a number. There are other line weights on each end of this scale, but those are for more specialized uses.

To choose an appropriate line weight, the major consideration is the size of the fly being used. The angler needs to think about what type of fishing they plan to do, and the flies that would be used for those fish. For brook trout in small streams, generally very small flies are used. A line weight of 2 to 5 would be appropriate. For panfish, where small poppers and streamers would be used, a line weight of 5 or 6 would do. For bass, pickerel and small pike, line weights 6 through 8 would do well, and for really big, bushy, wind resistant flies like those used for saltwater, choose a line weight of 8 or over.

Does this mean you can't use small trout flies on an 8-weight? No, it doesn't, but it would be overkill. The heavier line hitting the water would tend to spook wary fish in shallow streams. Can you use big bass bug flies on a 5-weight? Not well. The line simply doesn't have the mass necessary to pull the fly through the air.

When considering what weight rod to buy for smallmouth fishing, take a look at the flies you plan to throw to them. Some of the flies are quite small, and could easily be thrown with a 5-weight. Some are quite large, and would require an 8. You may wish to buy a rod with the larger flies in mind. However, if you plan to use it in areas that have both bass and trout fishing, you may wish to drop back to a lighter line weight, perhaps a 6, and just realize that the big bass bugs are out of the range of your rod. It's not necessary to buy a rod of every line weight, but it is asking too much of the rod you do buy to do everything!

How long should the rod be? Most flyrods are between 7 ½ feet and 9 feet long. Like line weights, there are variations on either end of this range, but are for more specialized purposes. If you plan to fish mostly in areas that are overgrown, small streams, etc., a shorter rod may be a better choice. If you plan to do a lot of fishing from a seated position, as in a canoe or a float-tube, the longer rod would give the advantage.

Now, just what the heck do they mean when they say "fast action"?

Most simply put, action is a term to describe the way a rod flexes. It is describing how fast it snaps back to straight after being put under a load. Go to a tackle shop, and flex a few of the rods…they don't have to be fly rods, but do find examples of rods that are fast and slow actions. Ask the sales-people for help. Hold the rod at the handle very firmly, with the line guides pointing to the side, and have a companion pull the tip of the rod aside about a foot, and let it go. A very fast-action rod will feel crisp, stiff, snappy….there are lots of ways to describe the sensation. Now try the same with a very slow action rod. The tip might actually go back and forth a bit before returning to straight. It feels whippy, mushy, soft….again, many ways of describing it. Resist the temptation to think that "faster is better". A very fast-action rod will magnify mistakes in the angler's timing, making the rod a bit difficult for a beginner. A moderate or medium fast action would be a better choice. A very slow action rod may not be the best for bass fishing, since the extra flexibility can hamper hook-setting and maneuvering the bass out of cover.

Next time: Reels