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Kayak Fishing Gear and Accessory List (Guest Article)
by Jeff "Yakfish" Little
Blue Ridge Kayak Fishing LLC

Paddle: Most fishermen will want to purchase a lightweight (more expensive) paddle and learn how to "one hand" the paddle. Top of the line whitewater paddles are not necessary, but $40 recreational type paddles will become heavy quickly. Length depends on the size of the boat. In general, a longer boat warrants a longer paddle. Feathering angle: most are right grip feathered. I use a left handed paddle. Do yourself a favor and learn to paddle with a right handed paddle (left hand control paddles are difficult to find in most paddle shops). The control hand grips the paddle, and the other just lets the shaft rotate inside a loose grip. A straight (non feathered) paddle will work for anyone, but will not have the advantage of decreased wind resistance while paddling. Many paddles are two piece models, and can be adjusted for different featherings. These types of paddles can also be stored underdeck as an extra, should a paddle break during a long float trip. Stay away from thin profile blades. They are for touring kayaks, and do not always get enough of a bite on the water. The wider blades are designed for whitewater use, and will do quite well for fishing purposes.

PFD or Lifevest: Wear it at all times while on the water. Since you will be wearing it at all times, you will want to pick one that is comfortable. Proper adjustment and picking the right size are important. Ask for a salesperson to help you pick a model that will not ride up (hit your chin if you pull up on the shoulder straps after proper adjustment). Some PFD manufacturers are now making vests for use with high back seats that are common in recreational kayaks. Comfort is the key.

Skirt: Skirts are designed to prevent a sudden flow of water from entering your kayak. They will not keep you dry. If you tip the kayak so the cockpit rim dips below the water surface line without a skirt, you will have a difficult time saving yourself from a complete tipping. The skirt enables you to hip snap back to an upright position with a minimal amount of water entering the kayak. Nylon skirts are weaker than neoprene skirts as a barrier for the water to enter the kayak. The grab loop at the front should always be accessible (not tucked in) after putting the skirt on (wet exits without a grab loop are not fun)

Rod Holder: There are basically two types: External rod holders, and flush mounted rod holders. They are available at most marine shops, and can be installed without compromising the integrity of your kayak. A bungee strap should be mounted alongside the rod holder, so that the bungee (deck rigging) can secure the rod while paddling through whitewater or whitecap situations.

Thermometer: Get one at a pool store for under $10, and tie it to your deck rigging.

Landing Net: A monster smallmouth on the New River taught me the importance of bringing a net. The second you lift the fishes head out of the water by the line, he gains the leverage advantage. It's the same concept behind keeping a fish from jumping. It is especially heartbreaking to get a big fish to the side of the kayak and get to see how large he is, only to see him turn and spit the hook. Nets allow you to keep the fish all of the way in the water during the entire fight. I use a trout fishing net, and have it tied to the deck rigging.

Deck Rigging: Tie downs, bungee by the foot, cleats, and hardware can usually be purchased at whitewater supply stores (Springriver Corp 800-882-5694 , Blue Mountain Outfitters, REI). Don't be afraid to drill holes in your boat! The added accessibility and storage space will be invaluable.

First Aid Kit: Backpacker type kits are lightweight and compact. They should be stored in their own dry bag, so you don't have to dig through a larger dry bag during an emergency.

Dry Bags: They can keep your sandwich from getting soggy, keep your dollar bills dry, and keep extra clothes from getting cold. Anything that can sustain water damage should be kept in a dry bag. They are not completely waterproof, but if in good repair, they are your best option. Avoid the clear plastic dry bags because they dry rot quicker, and develop cracks where you fold them up. Get several different sizes and colors, so you can quickly identify which one holds the first aid kit, which one holds the toilet paper, and which one holds your dry clothing.

Dry Clothing: Early fall through late spring, an extra set of dry clothes is a must to protect yourself from hypothermia. Even in the middle of summer, when a cold front thunderstorm passes, hypothermia is a possibility. If you do get wet, and are cold, you need to have dry clothes to regain temperature stability.

Map Bag: Maps are mandatory for doing float trips you are unfamiliar with. Topozone.com is a great resource for maps. Keep them from getting wet and deteriorating by using this specialized type of dry bag.

Throw Bags: Throw bags are nothing more than floating rope stuffed in a nylon sack that can be used for rescue or victim stabilization. An American Canoe Association swift water rescue course is a great way to learn how to use a throw bag.

Drain Plugs: Most whitewater kayaks come with a drain plug. They provide a way to easily drain most of the water out of your kayak. Drain plugs can be installed on recreational kayaks. Most outdoor stores that carry kayak accessories have kits to install a drain plug.

Sponge/Hand Bilge Pump: These two things make the task of emptying a submerged boat quick and easy. Boats with drain plugs shouldn't need a bilge pump, but a car wash sponge helps remove the last bit of water after using the drain plug.

Tackle Storage: There are many approaches to tackle storage. I started with a hard box between my legs, then a soft box held on the deck by deck rigging, then a back pack with several trays. Currently, I use the most simplistic approach: Tupperware. I put tubes, Texas rigged plastics, A spinnerbait or two, a buzzbait, and a topwater plug in the Tupperware, and let it sit on the skirt right in front of me. The Tupperware gets secured under deck rigging only when running class II water or above. The trick to spending more time fishing than finding your tackle is to know what your confidence lures are, and keeping them easily accessible.

Extras to bring just in case: Rod: Two Piece stored under deck, Paddle: Two piece stored under deck, Reel and several full spools, a small stash of confidence baits (should you lose track of your Tupperware), batteries, car keys (get a spare made to keep in your dry bag permanently)

Clippers/Hook cutters/Pliers: Clippers for line, pliers for hard to unhook fish, hook cutters for a hook embedded in your thumb when you are many miles from the nearest trained medical professional.

Camera: Waterproof cameras keep fishermen honest. Don't let anyone tell you that holding the fish toward the camera is cheating!

Polarized Sunglasses: If you don't already have a pair, get one. They help you spot underwater structure, which will increase your catch rate.

Croakies: You can't spot underwater structure if you lose the glasses. I have lost two pair of prescription glasses in the Potomac River. The fish have seen me coming ever since.

Sunscreen: So you can still be yak fishing at 70.

WD40 or other lubricant: For gummed up reels.

Bug Spray: Look for the highest % of DET (the active ingredient), when deciding which brand to buy.

Small flashlight: For when you bite off more than you can chew, and end up paddling the last three miles in the dark.

A stash of food: For when you bite off more than you can chew, and end up paddling the last three miles in the dark. Many energy bars taste like mud and sugar, but can keep you moving when your blood sugar bottoms out.

Extra water: For when you bite off more than you can chew, and end up paddling the last three miles in the dark. You will want the water to get the taste of the energy bar out of your mouth.

Lighter: A small lighter kept in a dry bag can start a fire for hypothermic situations in remote locations.

Knife: You'll need one sooner or later. Keep it accessible.

Wide brimmed hat: To keep the sun out of your eyes.

Helmet: If you decide to forgo the portage, a helmet is good insurance. It is also essential for learning how to wet exit.

Emergency Whistle: A high pitched whistle carries over the sound of whitewater better than someone yelling. They can be used to get attention emergency situations.

Two way radios: These are even better for warning members of your group of upcoming hazards. They can also be used to tell someone of a huge fish you just spooked. Dry bags are available for radios.

Dry Rag in a Ziploc: It can be used to clean water drops off of your glasses or camera lens.

Anchors: Left off of the list intentionally. If you decide to use one, do not tie it to your boat, wrap it onto a cleat so you can leave it behind. I have made a bad decision on where to throw the anchor one time. I had to be cut loose by a good friend with a knife. Learn where and when it's safe to lower an anchor during the warm months only. Spring, fall and winter are bad times to learn this lesson.